It's not quote as radical as the Chinese Revolution, but Renata Roberts's reinvention of the old Chinese takeaway on Wongabel Street is bold in many wonderful ways. Behind the humble shopfront and smattering of footpath tables lies a striking charcoal and crimson interior, softened by the muted tones of plush Chinese rugs with modern art and red and white lanterns suspended from the ceiling. Chilli lovers rejoice in dishes such as Xinjiang beef - a dry, cumin-rich curry generously dotted with dried chilli. Purists will appreciate authentic cuts of meat such as lamb ribs with coriander. chilli, ginger, sesame and garlic. The menu forewarns of their "chewy, fatty" nature, and while certainly not a pretty process, there is a primal satisfaction in wrestling every last flavoursome piece of meat from the bones. The less adventurous will be happier with a spring onion omelette, the less challenging Shanghainese pork spare ribs in vinegar sauce or dumplings. The kitchen will be happy to tone down the heat in any dish.